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to the topThis information was originally collected and distributed by Marji Piech from April to October in 1996. It has been re-organized and formatted by Ashley Engelund. The content remains the same. All information is from Marji Piech, except where she has explictly noted other contributors.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Back to the main page of Marji Piech's 1630 Notes and Fantasy Stitches
Hand Look Quilting Stitch (from BFC):
Notes: I used 40wt. rayon in the bobbin and it worked fine. You may wish to stitch a little more slowly than usual. The first 1/2 inch of stitches doesn’t seem to turn out perfectly. This stitch also does not look very good on sharp curves, however this does improve if the balance is increased to 9 or 10.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Alternative Hand Look Quilting Stitch (from BFC):
Notes: This produces a very fine stitch. The walking foot isn't necessary when working on thin layers. I don't know though if you are working on a quilt. The quality of this stitch does not seem to be adversely affected by curves.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Basic Heart Stitch (Bernina� manual):
Notes: This is the stitch in the manual. If you increase the balance number the hearts will become further apart, decreasing it will bring them closer together. This stitch also looks good with a smaller stitch width. Also, try the pattern extension (X2).
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Vines and Hearts:
Notes: Decreasing the vertical balance number will create larger hearts. Increasing it will create buds. Try increasing it as you stitch for a growth effect. Pattern extension also works well.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
String of Lights:
Notes: Increasing the balance number produce an interesting effect. Engaging the pattern extension produces a longer string of lights with more pronounced bulbs.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
The Moon on a String:
Notes: This stitch also works with the balance at +3. If you set the balance at -3, another interesting stitch is created. Quite versatile.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Tulips:
Notes: Also try the balance at +15 and +19.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Hand look applique (BFC):
Notes: The black guide on the foot should follow the edge of the applique. The straight stitches should fall just off the folded edge and the zag just on the applique. Adjust the needle position if necessary. It seems easiest to turn corners with you needle down (of course) at the end of the last straight stitch before the zag-get used to counting the stitches and it becomes automatic.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Whipped and Rolled Hem (BFC and personal):
Notes: The edge of the fabric to be rolled should fall just to the right of the middle toe of the foot. This takes a little practice. I haven't played with this much so if you have great success tell me how.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Gathering Over Cord (Bernina� manual, classes, personal):
Notes: Take a length of Pearl Crown Rayon or crochet cotton about twice the flat length to be gathered. Fold it in half and take the loop over the center toe of the foot, as you would for a corded buttonhole. The ends then go under the foot towards the back and will rest in the two channels. Start stitching. I decrease my stitch length to zero for a few stitches at the beginning and end of the gathering to form a little bar tack that keeps it from ripping out as I adjust the gathers. Just pull the cord ends to gather the fabric. You may need less cord than detailed above, experiment.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Entredeux for 1630
Notes: Setting may be altered to produce a stitch liked best by the individual. Accuracy in both pressing the hem under and guiding the fabric so that the raw edge is at the center of the presser foot (underneath) is necessary to ensure that the raw edge is both caught and finished. Corners should be mitered to the hem depth before pressing up the hem so that you can just pivot at the corners when stitching.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
My Favorite Couching Method:
Notes: Thread your cording through the center groove in the foot and then let the foot guide it. Stitch with the needle down engaged. The closer the stitch width is to the width of your cording the more of a scalloped effect you will get. To turn corners, stop with the needle down on the inside of the corner, the cording on the outside. Use the knee lift to raise the foot. As you pivot the fabric the cording should be held on the line of the pattern by the needle. (If the cording is inside the needle you will get a very rounded corner that is hard to control.) Try to turn the corner at the end of the last straight stitch before the zag of the needle. Upper tension may be loosened to keep bobbin thread from being pulled to top side.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Ribbon Stitch
Notes: This stitch is designed to attach 1/8" ribbon such as the Offray Spool 'O Ribbon. Guide the ribbon so that it is centered under the score in the center of the foot. If you then guide the fabric edge to the inside of the right toe of the foot the ribbon will be attached about 1/16th of an inch in from the edge. Otherwise follow a marked line. I used this to couch white ribbon around the neckline of white pajamas with white Sulky rayon thread. Be sure to slightly stretch the ribbon on outside curves to keep it from bubbling.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Entredeux (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)
Pat's Notes: I use cotton organdy (as the base fabric) and cut it into 1 to 1 1/2" strips to use as entredeux. It helps to spray starch the fabric and use a stabilizer (on the bottom) such as Sulky's Solvy (cold) water soluble; or use Perfect Sew (Pat's first choice); liquid starch from the grocery store is another option. You may want to put the Perfect Sew in a large, empty roll-on deodorant (Ban) bottle for easier application. Do not trim the entredeux until after stitching it to your garment. This technique uses quite a bit of thread.
My notes: I used multiple layers of spray starch (hold the strips in the air to spray them) and then used two layers of Sulky Solvy underneath. I engaged the needle stop down feature so that I could readjust the fabric and stabilizer layers without harming the continuity of the stitching. My own wing needle is a size 100/16 and worked just fine. This stitch actually will still produce an interesting insertion with just a Universal 80 needle; the holes will not be as pronounced and the stitching will be more compact but still pretty. According to Martha's Sewing Room this stitch could also be used with a stitch width of 3.5.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Pinstitch (Pam Hill/ Martha's Sewing Room)
Notes: Starch fabric well prior to stitching as this is what allows the holes to form in the fabric instead of it drawing up. Use any or all of the stabilizing methods mentioned for Entredeux. Would be a great addition to a plain blouse front or shirt hem, especially in a fine linen or cotton.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Baby Daisy Entredeux (Pam Hill/ Martha's Sewing Room)
Notes: Starch fabric well prior to stitching as this is what allows the holes to form in the fabric instead of it drawing up. Use any or all of the stabilizing methods mentioned for Entredeux. Can be stitched in strips and used as traditional entredeux or would be a great addition to a plain blouse front or shirt hem, especially in a fine linen or cotton.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Fine Rolled and Whipped Edge (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)
Pat's Notes: This works best on fine fabrics. Press under 3/8" along the edge of the fabric. Place folded edge right side up, aligned slightly to the right of the toe on the overlock foot. The fabric should cover 1/2 of the small, circular, hole in the needle plate which is in front of the zigzag opening. You will not use the bar on the right side of the overlock foot. Stitch slowly and constantly, guiding fabric with fingers. Trim excess fabric from the back close to stitching.
My Notes: This is a wonderful edge finish! I did my sample on a washed muslin and it turned out so well that I could not tell the back from the front. When you trim the excess fabric from the back, be sure to bevel your scissors so as not to catch the outer layer. If you hold the edge of fabric that you are trimming over you scissors blade with your left thumb and pull just a little you will be able to trim very close to the stitching with just standard scissors.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
"Corded Braid" (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)
Pat's Notes: Hold the thread you are using for couching in the desired position on fabric. Use a piece of removable Scotch tape to secure in place. This allows you to insert the multiple threads into the different holes of the foot. Use 5 threads. The foot will help to keep the couching thread aligned, but you have to watch them as they enter the foot and straighten them as needed. Clotilde has a notion in her catalog to help keep them aligned but I haven't tried it. I tried using Sulky Sliver in the needle but the monofilament (invisible) looks better.
My Notes: The threads used in the cording foot can be almost anything. From yarn to Pearl Crown Rayon, Decor 6 to ribbon floss. Look around for ideas. Couched mohair yarn is beautiful and the yarn can be obtained in reasonable quantities where materials for fly tying are sold. Foot #22, the 3 Groove Cording Foot, could also be used; you can put multiple threads in the grooves if you watch carefully that they enter straight. When using single cords with Foot #22, unless they are thick you will see some of the fashion fabric between the cords, more like a parallel couching effect. Remember that the black portion at the front of either foot swings out to the left for easy cord insertion.
Stabilize your fabric before stitching; fusible interfacing is a possibility. Stitch A 2/3 (Stitch Width = 5, Stitch Length = 1.5) also works, again at width 5. Many other stitches, including decorative ones can also be used (with decorative thread)-depends on personal preference and desired effect.
To turn sharp corners stop with needle down at the inside of corner so that couching threads wrap around needle as you lift the presser foot and turn. Use the smoke color of monofilament if your couching threads are dark. To finish cord ends either plan to enclose in seam, bring to back and tie, tie knots and let dangle loose or tie knots and cover with a decorative button or finding.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Homemade Lace (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)
For all steps:
Setting # 1
Setting #2
Setting #3
Pat's instructions: Cut strips of cotton tulle slightly wider than the desired finished width of lace, soak in Perfect Sew and dry overnight. Take care to keep the strips as straight as possible. Using Setting # 1 overcast one side of the tulle, keeping the edge of the tulle under the bar on the right side of the overlock foot. Next stitch the embroidered portion of the lace using setting #3. The mirror image, pattern begin, and securing buttons are all helpful. Lastly, use setting #2 to stitch a scalloped edging on the other side of the tulle strip. Trim after stitching and remove any excess stabilizer (if it was used). At this point the lace will be very stiff, but when you rinse it out it softens nicely and the lace will not be as sharply defined.
My Notes: I think the tulle I tried to use was nylon. At any rate, it was somewhat impervious to both Perfect Sew and spray starch, at least to the degree that I still needed additional stabilizer on the underside in order to stitch on it. I tried using two layers of Sulky Solvy but didn't have much luck. One layer of Sulky's Heat Away worked wonders for my stitch formation. It removed fairly easily after stitching with the iron, a press cloth, and then an old, sterilized toothbrush. Remember the press cloth if you decide to use rayon thread!! And don't use a hot _water_ soluble stabilizer with rayon thread!!
You have to be quite careful when overcasting the first side of the tulle-if you do not catch the edge of the tulle the stitching will ravel. Better to have to trim a little tulle from outside the stitching. You could also make a satin stitched edge or incorporate a thread for gathering. Your choice of decorative stitches for the interior of the lace is almost unlimited. Try the large floral motifs, spaced evenly along the length of the piece. Anything that looks good is right. You could also substitute stitch G 1/7 for the scalloped border or use one of the large edging stitches in menu G 2.
In the Singer Decorative Machine Stitching book it recommends using multiple (2 to 3) layers of tulle when making lace insertions. This would hold up better if the lace would be under stress. Using these ideas you could also make shaped lace motifs such as are often used in bridal gowns and expensive lingerie at necklines. Tulle does come in colors and cotton or rayon embroidery thread could be used as long as the top and bobbin threads matched.
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.
Back to the main page of Marji Piech's 1630 Notes and Fantasy Stitches
The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.
If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.